Welcome New & Old

Introducing a new product to Fresholi, olive squalane, a key ingredient in many skin and hair care products, especially those designed for dry, dehydrated and ageing skin. We also have back in stock, the wonderful virgin, organic and unfiltered dark cocoa butter. We honestly thought that we wouldn't be able to stock this again, due to questions about production, but yes, after a long absence it is now back!

Organic Nilotica and Dark Cocoa Butter

This is just a very quick note to say that I have taken delivery of a new stock of the gorgeous organic, virgin cocoa butter (dark) and the beautiful organic, unrefined nilotica butter. I have had (what seems like) the devil's job getting more of this in but this is of a particularly excellent quality and it has certainly made up for the long wait.

Launching Fresholistics!!

By Helen Williams MICHT MIFHB Cert. ED

After much planning, I am so very pleased to finally launch Fresholistics, which brings you a growing range of synergistically blended essential oils for use in finished products and therapeutic applications. These are not blended in a factory, nor are they standard blends. Instead, these blends are my own creations based on my years of experience as a practising beauty & complementary therapist and lecturer. Fresholistics offers a truly therapeutic approach to finished products.

Fresholistics Therapeutic Blends:

· Individually created by a qualified & experienced therapist
· Contain whole/complete, unadulterated, quality essential oils and nothing else
· No isolates, synthetics or preservatives
· Essential oils are selected for their therapeutic properties
· Adds label appeal to your finished products and can be further enhanced by including words to the effect of “blend created/developed by a qualified aromatherapist”
· Can be used in salon treatments
· Can be added to finished products such as soaps, creams, oils, bath & body products.

Complementary therapy is based on the ethos that the “whole” is central to all therapeutic applications. For this reason, no isolates or synthetics are used – only the complete, unadulterated oil is ever considered for inclusion in the blends.

Oils are chosen, first & foremost, for their therapeutic properties and are then blended to create a powerful synergy. I will also work closely with crafters and formulators in the creation of their own custom blends and product development. See Custom Blend/Development…

What you are buying when you purchase a Fresholistics Synergistic Blend…

As a responsible therapist who holds dear the values of my profession, I feel it important that all customers are provided with more than just a blend of oils. Therefore, I feel it necessary to deliver a service that goes that bit further to ensure customers know as much as possible about the therapeutic compound they have purchased. So when a customer purchases an oil blend or I work with them in developing a blend, I provide the following:

· 100% Quality, carefully sourced, unadulterated, pure essential oil synergistic blends
· Allergen declarations & MSDS
· A data sheet that provides simple but detailed and useful information about each blend
· For ease of labelling, the key therapeutic properties, cautions & warnings

Fresholistics Custom Blending/Aromatherapy Product Development:

· Blended to meet individual product requirements
· Have your oils pre-blended to your own specification (to save you both time and the need to purchase individual oils)

I am very happy to create blends to meet individual needs. If you would like to have a blend created to meet your specific product aims or have a blend made to your own specifications, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Floral Waxes Back In Stock!!

With their divine rich, deep aromas, floral waxes are an indulgent ingredient to add to soaps, lotions, creams, massage bars, solid perfumes, candles and anything else you can think of where aromatic depth & longevity is desired.

A floral wax is a product of the production of absolutes and while their scent is much softer than the absolute, they have wonderfully well rounded aromas that tend to linger. By adding up to 10% to your products will create new aromatic elements and fusions of some of the richest and most exotic scents at a fraction of the cost of the absolute. Not only will these beautiful waxes add scent but they also lend a subtle degree of hardness to the products they are added

The Following Floral Waxes Are Now In Stock At Fresholi...

Jasmine Grandaflorum Wax: A soft, mid-brown wax with a melting point of around 50-60 degrees C. Jasmine is one of the most prized perfumers ingredients, the grandiflorum is often favoured due to its round aroma. It has a rich, deeply sweet, floral aroma with undertones that are rather tea like. It has a great tenacity in blends and blends well with just about everything.

Rose Wax: A medium hard wax with a yellow/green colour. It has a melting point of around 60 degrees C. Like jasmine, rose is an important perfume component and this intensely sweet, rich, floral aroma has distinctive rose characteristics.

Orange Flower Wax: (Neroli) A medium hard, brown wax with a that has a fresh top note with warm, sweet floral undertones. A delicate yet rich aroma that would add depth to fragrance blends.

Recipe Idea!

Floral Liquiwax

I found a really simple way of making use of the exotic aromas of floral (or fruit peel) waxes, at a fraction of the cost if you were to use the absolute. This makes a great stand alone after bath/shower oil or for really dry skin (gorgeous aroma)

50% Jojoba
44% Apricot kernel oil
6% Floral wax of choice (I used rose)

- Add the jojoba and the apricot oil to a dark glass bottle (I used an amber glass bottle)
- Place in a saucepan of boiling hot water (I turned the heat on low)
- When the oils are nice and hot, add in the floral wax and put the lid on the bottle
- Place back in the hot water for a minute then take out the bottle and shake
- Continue to do this heat/shake until all of the wax has completely melted
- Then it is good to go!

You could change the ratio of the floral wax to a much higher % and you can use different oils if you like then use this fragrant oil to add to creams after they have been emulsified and cooled (just make sure that whatever % you intend to add in at the end - usually a max of 10% - you deduct this from your oil phase. Also, if you are adding in essential oils, please ensure you account for the essentail oils present in the wax (that is roughly just less than half the total weight of the wax).

Floral Waxes now available from www.fresholi.com

Poor Man's Sandalwood

This is how amyris is often described and personally, I don't think that it does this essential oil much justice at all. Also known as West Indian Sandalwood, I do think that amyris has many qualities in its own right.

Native to Haiti, this small. Bushy tree is also cultivated in other tropic regions of the globe. It is often confused with Sandalwood Mysore but Sandalwood Amyris is less tenacious than mysore.

It is commonly referred to by the locals as ‘candlewood’ because the wood is good for using as torches (the oil content of the wood keeps it burning for long periods). The wood also makes excellent furniture wood.

The essential oils is extracted by the steam distillation of the wood and branches and the oil yield is considered good

It has a top/middle note. Bares many similarities to mysore and hints rosewood. It is a little less sweet than mysore with a musty, woody body. It is often compared to mysore but amyris is lovely aromatic note useful in perfume blends in its own right.

Amyris blends harmoniously with many other wood oils, such as cedarwood and compliments the fresh notes of oils such as lavendin and citronella.

Although non-irritant in most cases, it is best used with care in the first trimester of pregnancy

Thought to be antiseptic, balslamic and a sedative.

Amyris offers a very economical alternative to mysore and it is a key perfume component in many perfumes and cosmetics. Used frequently as a fixative in soap.

Amyris is available from Fresholi...

Organic Virgin Cocoa Butter

The purity and decedance of virgin raw materials is something to behold. Rich, aromatic, unadulterated. Such purity seems almost magical and powers the senses, sending your mind off on subliminal journeys.

Organic Virgin Cocoa Butter. In its unfiltered state, it has the look and aroma of rich chocolate. Filtered, it is smooth, rich and has the most wonderful creamy colour. It is different and you know it is different with just one look.

Imagine, a lip balm, cream, massage bar or soap containing all the richly antioxidant properties that come from the unique method of product.

Most often, cocoa butter is a by-product of confectionary, but organic virgin cocoa butter is pressed from the whole bean, retaining the maximum goodies.

Fresholi's unfiltered virgin cocoa butter does not contain any other material and the colour comes from the naturally ocurring cocoa solids from pressing and is sourced from organic plantations where a fair price is paid to farmers and the community and environment is respected.

Among the skin care benefits of cocoa butter, it is said to:

- Have been used for centuries to help keep the skin soft and supple and has been called 'the ultimate moisturiser'.

- Excellent for use on very dry, dehydrated and chapped skin as it moisturises, soothes and protects.

- It is a natural source of vitamin E which has numerous skin benefits.

- Melts on skin contact and is absorbed slowly by the skin making it ideal in massage bases (especially when blended with essential oils), ointments, lip balms (chocolate taste without the calories - perfect!) etc...

- Contains tocopherols and polyphenols that have antioxidant properties to suppress free radicals soothe irritations.

- Cocoa butter is often added to suntan product as it can help to enhance the appearance of a suntan (although be aware that cocoa butter itself does not contain a SPF).

- Often recommended for skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis, not only for its moisturising properties but it also contains CMP (cocoa mass polyphenol) that inhibits the production of immuno globulin IgE, (which may exacerbate the symptoms of asthma and dermatitis).

- Helps to protect sensitive skin from external elements by providing a moisture-retaining barrier to the environment.

- Cocoa butter has a long tradition of being used by pregnant women to help prevent stretch marks as well as reduce their appearance.

- Recent researched has indicated the possible health benefits gained from eating chocolate but there has also been indications that massaging with cocoa butter may help to relieve stress and boost the immune system and could help to prevent cancer.

For more on Organic, Virgin Cocoa Butter, please visit Fresholi...

Spicy Stuff

A while back, I was perusing the supermarket looking for potential ingredients that could be used in creams, lotions & potions (forget putting food in ones belly, there are far more interesting things to be doing in the kitchen).

Anyway, I came upon the herbs and spices and, when one is in the mindset that I was that day, you don't see flavours. You see colours, textures, aromas, functionality, brief glimpses of finished products and the effects that could be achieved from them.

What really caught my eye this day was the ground cardomon. So fine, so delicate, soooo aromatic and certainly not a spice that I keep in my cupboard (I'm not an adventurous or creative cook). I bought it and took it home.

Cardomon is not the cheapest of essential oils but the aroma is just lovely and few people dislike it. The ground spice is equally as lovely, being warm, spicy-sweet & balsamic and, like the essential oil, its aroma strength is very good and certainly a much cheaper alternative.

The powder of the ground cardomon is super-fine and got me thinking about its potential for gentle exfoliation and facial skin refinement. I tried it in a cleansing cream wash that I made previously, adding about a heaped teaspoon to roughly 50g of cream and worked this into my face for about a minute (using gentle pressure and working in small circles) and the result was truly outstanding. My skin felt fresh, clean and so very, very smooth. No stinging, no irritation. What's more, the aroma was wonderful and seemed to last an age - just lovely. Now, I just use it a couple of times a week, mixing a small amount into my usual measure of cleanser.

I've not tried it in soap (yet) although I did use ground cinnamon, clove and sugar M&P soap. Here, I used the cinnamon and a dash of tumeric for colour (which was just lovely) and it gave the soap a multi-grade exfoliant texture - a good compliment to to the courser grade of the sugar. The aroma of the cinnamon was fairly good although I did boost it with some essential oil.

Going back to the cardomon, I wonder what it, or any other spice for that matter, is like infused in oil? I wonder if you could harness the wonderful aroma. I feel an experiment coming on :o)

We have had a number of discussion on the Melting Pot Cafe Forum at Fresholi about herbs/spices in products. I would love to hear your experiences in soaps, products and infusions.

Tamanu Oil - Ingredient Feature

With an aroma that is (in my opinion) not unlike that of a walnut, tamanu oil is perhaps one of the most intriguing oils I’ve ever come across. Apart from the aroma, it has a rich colour and a consistency that is thick, almost puddingy. Despite its richness, it absorbs into the skin remarkably well. So what is tamanu oil?

Well, the Tamanu tree is native to South East Asia and Polynesia and has now naturalised to Hawaii and grows in Madagascar (where it is known as Kamanu). It is also known as Calophyllum inophyllum, Anti tree, Alexandrian laurel, Kamani tree, Indian poon, True kamani and Foraha.

Calophyllum is from the Greek ‘with beautiful leaves’ and is sometimes called Beauty leaf. With its droopinf fruit, glossy leaves and aromatic white flowers, it is often cultivated as an ornamental tree. The oil is obtained from the sun dried nuts that are cold pressed to produce a thick, viscous oil that can vary in colour, from dark green/yellow to almost black.

Before the conversion to Christianity, the ancient Polynesians considered the Tamanu tree assacred. Idols were carved in the wood and they are still considered a sacred relics of the past. Considered highly medicinal, the oil and many parts of the tree were and are still used in tinctures and decoctions.

The oil is sometimes used in conjunction with coconut oil and flower essences as a massage medium for Lomi Lomi massage. One of the properties of tamanu is that it is rubefacient, increases blood circulation, so it’s one that would be good in any warming oil massage blend. The fruit extract has been used to make a brown dye to colour tapa cloth and the oil used to waterproof it.

It is interesting to note that around the turn of the century (1900), missionaries in the South Seas noticed that people suffering from leprosy would come to the leper house with Tamanu, which they rubbed on their wounds. They had the idea to dilute the oil in an alcohol ether to prepare an injection. This proved effective against the associated neural problems and is still used successfully in hospitals in this region.

Tamanu Oil is said to…

· Be useful in treating rheumatism

· Relieve itching· Relieving scabies

· Have similar properties to Myrhh

· Help relieve ringworm

· Be used as a liniment for joint pain

· Be used by Fijan mothers to help prevent nappy rash

· Be good to use in place of lip balm for chapped, dry lips

· Healing to wounds, cracks and chaps

· Good to apply to chemical and physical burns (including sunburn)

· Be anti-inflammatory

· Be useful for allergic skin disorders such as eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis

· Be useful for general skin disorders such as diabetic sores, chilblains, cracks, acne, dry skin

· Be useful for skin diseases such as herpes

· Treat alopecia

· Relieve haemorrhoids

· Reduce the appearance of scarring and keloid scarring

Cosmetic Uses:

While tamanu oil has been a long kept beauty secret of the natives, it now has caught the interest of some cosmetic scientist and a number of studies have been carried out with interesting results. Tamanu is a valuable raw ingredient in cosmetic preparations and is used chiefly for its restorative, regenerative and protective properties. It can also be used in soap making as a valuable and active ingredient. Examples of other uses include…

· Used neat or infused with essential oils / fragrance oils (flower fragrances are ideal)

· Ideal for acne preparations

· Added to ointments for aches & pains of the joints, muscles and nerves

· Restorative and protective cream formulations

· To add 'value' to soaps

· Used in massage, blended with other carriers (largely due to the expense)

· Lip balms for chapped, parched lips

· Body butters and bars

More about tamanu oil....

Embrace The Grit?

Something was brought up on the Melting Pot Cafe forum regarding a problem with a lip balm formula containing shea and mango butter. It wasn't the first time this was brought up. So what is the problem? Grittiness.

Sometimes, finished products that contain either shea or mango can feel grainy or gritty. It is not usually noticed straight away though as it can take a few days for it to materialise. This is because these two butters are both high in unsaponifiables and if heated incorrectly can develop crystal-like granules of fat as they cool and set.

Although they do eventually melt upon skin contact (with the assistance of massage), the initial 'grainy' feel can be disappointing, especially when the user is expecting a smooth formulation.

But can it be embraced? What about a product that has natural and gentle dispersable exfoliating granules? Great for the lips and wonderful in creams/body butters as no rinsing is required. If that doesn't float your boat and it is a problem, there is a method you could use to either remove or avoid this and restore smoothness.

• In a double boiler, heat your shea or mango to about 76-85 degrees C (don't worry about spoiling the properties of the butter, this is not hot enough).


• Maintain this temperature for 15-20 minutes to ensure all fat crystals are completely melted.
  After 15-20 minutes allow to cool (rapid cooling will reduce the chances of crystals reforming - using a bowl of ice-water will speed the cooling process).


• This process can be repeated if any crystals reform after cooling and solidifying (can happen if heat is not maintained at right temperature or for long enough).

Cocoa Butter

Mmmm...... just the saying that makes me think I have gained a few pounds, lol. If you are not familiar with it in its raw form, here's a lil' lowdown....

The cocoa tree is native to the lowland rainforest regions of central and northern South America, particularly those surrounding the Orinoco and Amazon rivers, although the cocoa tree is now pan-tropic. The fat extracted from the seeds becomes cocoa butter and has a variety of cosmetic and dietary uses.

Cocoa butter (or cacao butter) is a pale white to yellow solid edible fat with a wonderful, slightly sweet chocolate taste and aroma. It has a melting point of between 32-35 deg c. The cocoa butter present in quality chocolate provides that fabulous texture that just 'melts in the mouth'.

While having obvious dietary uses (chocolate - look, there's another couple of pounds I just gained -Eek!) it is also a very rich compound, with excellent emollient properties thus having numerous uses in hair and skin care.

Cocoa butter is one of the most stable and concentrated natural fats and does not go rancid easily. Most skins tolerate it very well however, where there is evidence of irritation or sensitivity, discontinue use.

Skin Care & Cocoa Butter

• Has been used for centuries to help keep the skin soft and supple and has been called 'the ultimate moisturiser'.


• Excellent for use on very dry, dehydrated and chapped skin as it moisturises, soothes and protects.


• It is a natural source of vitamin E which has numerous skin benefits.


• Melts on skin contact and is absorbed slowly by the skin making it ideal in massage bases (especially when blended with essential oils), ointments, lip balms (chocolate taste without the calories - perfect!) etc...


• Contains tocopherols and polyphenols that have antioxidant properties to suppress free radicals soothe irritations.


• Cocoa butter is often added to suntan product as it can help to enhance the appearance of a suntan (although be aware that cocoa butter itself does not contain a SPF).


• Often recommended for skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis, not only for its moisturising properties but it also contains CMP (cocoa mass polyphenol) that inhibits the production of immuno globulin IgE, (which may exacerbate the symptoms of asthma and dermatitis).


• Helps to protect sensitive skin from external elements by providing a moisture-retaining barrier to the environment.


• Cocoa butter has a long tradition of being used by pregnant women to help prevent stretch marks as well as reduce their appearance.


• Recent researched has indicated the possible health benefits gained from eating chocolate but there has also been indications that massaging with cocoa butter may help to relieve stress and boost the immune system and could help to prevent cancer.

Oils, Butters and Waxes

There are a huge number of nut and vegetable fixed oils available to the aromatherapist, soap or lotion maker, each having their own unique, value-adding properties. To produce quality blends and formulations, use only fresh oils of high grade (such as food, cosmetic or pharmaceutical grade).

Refined V Unrefined

Unrefined oils are a fabulous and flavoursome ingredient and well suited for food use. However, they usually have a much stronger odour, which can dominate a formulation, and, more importantly, have a much shorter shelf-life. This is fine if the end product is used quickly (as in food applications) but when it comes to cosmetic applications (lip balms, soap, lotions etc...), it is expected that the product will last longer than a food item. Refinement is simply a means of removing the free-fatty acids (that can cause the oil to become rancid rather quickly) and reducing its odour and sometimes its strong colouring.

This said, holistic therapists (such as aromatherapists) may well have a preference for unrefined oils in which case, might well consider buying their fixed oils in smaller quantities to ensure freshness and to avoid having to discard oils that have become rancid before being used. Adding an anti-oxidant, such as vitamin E, can help to prevent oxidation (rancidity) and thus prolong the shelf life.

Refined oils are the oil of choice for some lotion and soap makers

Refined, cold-pressed oils are considered the best for lotion and soap makers because they can withstand oxidation and have a much lower odour. Refined oils offer the formulator some reassurance that their products are stable.

Storing Your Oils And Butters

To retain freshness, oils and butters should be stored in airtight containers/bottles and kept in a dry, cool and dark place. The fridge is fantastic as it maintains a constant cool temperature and a dark environment. Refrigerators may turn some oils cloudy and some can become thickened, however the oil soon returns to normal once it has returned to room temperature. Your butters can be frozen providing they are well protected and clearly labelled with the date (use within 6 months after defrosting).

Fruit and Vegetable Seed Oils

These are generally polyunsaturated that are fine and fluid. They are functional and add value to creams, lotions, soaps etc... Oils that are high in stearic, oleic and lauric acids are best used as your main/primary oil, these include oils such as coconut, sunflower and jojoba. Oils that are high in essential fatty acids are rather delicate and less stable but add value and 'nutrition' to a formula, such as hemp or rosehip.

Nut Oils

Nut seed oils, such as sweet almond, hazelnut and macadamia work very well in creams, lotions and soaps (up to 15%) due to their moisturising properties however, it is important to remember that some individuals are allergic to nuts so clear labelling is vital.Olive Oils Olive oils comes in many grades and can often be a source of confusion. The grade of oil identifies the point at which it was pressed. For example, extra virgin olive oil is the oil produced soon after the olive is harvested and is the oil produced from the first pressing. The oil produced from subsequent pressings are graded as follows... virgin olive oil and then grade A olive oil. Olive pomace is obtained by solvent extraction, but the solvent is removed from the final product.

Vegetable Butters

Butters, such as mango, cocoa and shea, are pressed out and are considered naturally occurring. However, other vegetable or nut oils do need to go through a process of hydrogenation in order to create saturated fatty acids, resulting in a product that is solid at room temperature. In a small number of cases, such as in the production of aloa butter, the end butter is produced by infusing the plant material in a solid oil such as coconut oil. Butters are a wonderful addition to creams, lotions, soaps and other skin care products as they are excellent emollients and give hardness and solidity to the end product.

Plant Waxes

Waxes obtained from plant sources are becoming increasingly more popular for natural products and are a choice ingredient for vegan products because they are an alternative to beeswax. The wax ingredients provide hardness and solidity to the finished product as well as provide a protective element to the skin. Some waxes are obtained by boiling the plant material and then skimming the surface where the wax deposits (as in carnauba wax). In other cases, the plant material undergoes a series of hydrogenation of the fatty fractions (as in olive wax - no chemicals or foreign matter is used). Although often considered an oil, jojoba is in fact a liquid wax and is extracted by simple cold-pressing.

Beeswax

Beeswax is a combination of pollen, plant waxes and bee secretions. Beeswax is the material produced by bees to build their combs for the storage of honey, eggs and larvae. It is a hard material that has a distinct, honey-like aroma and has a melting point of around 63 degrees C. It also has a long shelf-life. Beeswax is boiled, cleaned and filtered and comes in either sheets or pellets. It has a natural yellow/brown colour but can sometimes be bleached in either sunlight or using hydrogen peroxide, producing a white beeswax. Like plant waxes, it adds hardness and solidity to end products as well as providing a protective barrier to the skin.